From Belize, Miracle sailed for two nights and one day, first to the north off the coast of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula, then east off the north coast of Cuba before passing by the Florida Keys and Miami, and finally reaching its home port of Port Everglades, Fort Lauderdale, early in the morning on Sunday 9 December. Our 8-day cruise was over, far too soon it felt. I wrote a review of the cruise for the website Cruise Critic.
After disembarking we took a taxi directly to the airport where we caught a noon flight to Atlanta, Georgia. There, after a two hour wait, we boarded a flight to Los Angeles, arriving at 6pm. At 10.30 pm we boarded the 14-hour Qantas flight to Sydney, arriving the following morning, and after another wait there of two hours or so, we completed the last leg to Adelaide. We were back home, tired but happy after a great journey that began in mid-August and had taken us to many fascinating places and sights.
To our readers, thanks for all the emails we received during our trip. We hope to maintain this Blog, so if you wish to, you are most welcome to check in from time to time to see where we are and what we're up to. We don’t think we've yet worked travel out of our system. To the contrary, I have a strong feeling that those insects that bit us in the Belizean jungle will prove to have been travel bugs, not mosquitoes. With so many bites, and our pre-disposition, it may be impossible to resist the symptoms. We can handle that!
Wednesday, 12 December 2007
Saturday, 8 December 2007
Belize City, Belize, Central America
After another full day and two nights at sea, Miracle dropped anchor shortly after sunrise in the harbour at Belize City. Belize is the diving and snorkeling capital of Central America, and its coral reef is second in size only to Australia’s Great Barrier Reef. To protect the reef, large passenger vessels are required to anchor well out to sea, and the passengers are transferred to shore in small boats. With 2,700 passengers on board the Miracle, this was quite an operation.Belize is also well-known in the USA as a tax-free shopping haven specializing in jewellery, and many passengers, particularly those of the female gender, were chafing at the bit as the first of the tender boats arrived to whisk us into Belize city.
We hired a minibus and driver to take us on a half-day tour of some of the nature sights in the countryside around the city. The guide told us that Belize was once a British colony; this is the reason why English is the principal language. The population is comprised of four main ethnic groups. One is the Mayan people, and the first stop on our tour was to inspect a centuries’ old Mayan temple ruin that was discovered overgrown in the jungle only a few decades ago during a road-building project. It was a pleasant place and we were permitted to climb to the top to get a view of the whole complex and surrounding jungle.
We then visited what was touted as a baboon sanctuary, but the resident animals were actually black Howler Monkeys. The noise the dominant male made from the tree-tops as we encroached into his territory was very impressive. Our young Belizean guide had established a relationship with this particularly monkey family, and they responded energetically to his monkey-calls. He was able to get two of the family to come down from the trees and within an arm’s length of the tourists standing on the jungle path below. The only other animals we saw at this place were 20 billion mosquitoes that swarmed around us whenever we entered a darker spot on the path. The guide had issued each of us with a brush that looked like a horse’s tail, to wave at and swat the mosquitoes. But that was only slightly effective, and by the time we got the DEET spray from our backpack and applied it to our skin, I was covered in mosquito bites on my face, neck and legs. Hopefully none of the mozzies in this hot and steamy tropical jungle are carriers of malaria, denghi fever, encephalitis etc.
Our minibus then returned to Belize city for a short drive around the port area. Then there was only time for a quick stroll around the tourist market before we had to board the tender boats for the 15-minute return journey across the harbour to the Miracle. As with the two previous shore excursion days, we had had a great time, but in each case the sight of the Miracle in the distance as the tour ended was a very welcome and alluring sight indeed. This was our first time on a cruise ship, and it was a very different, almost surreal, experience. During the day we had the opportunity to see some great sights in countries where many of the people are financially very poor and have to cope with the most basic of living conditions. But then at the end of the day we were whisked back to the closeted and luxurious cocoon of the cruise ship where we could take a shower in air-conditioned comfort before heading to Bacchus to make our dinner selections, and then be entertained in the Phantom Lounge. Anyone who did not feel very fortunate at the end of each of these shore excursion days must not have been thinking.
By 4.30pm all of Miracle’s passengers had re-boarded in Belize Harbour, and shortly after 5 the anchor was raised and we were on our way again. Later over the dinner tables there was the usual interesting talk about the different tours people had taken and the sights they had seen. But tonight there were also excited recountings of the day’s forays into the shops of Belize, and the jewels and other booty brought out. Later, the concert hall, casino and bars (even Dr Frankenstein’s I noted), were back in full swing.
Wednesday, 5 December 2007
Puerto Limon, Costa Rica, Central America
Just after sunrise Miracle docked in the deep-water port of Limon, Costa Rica, after an overnight journey off the coast of Nicaragua, Honduras and Guatemala. We were soon off the ship and on the wharf talking with the local tour operators. An hour later we were in a small boat whizzing along the Tortuguera canals that cut through the Costa Rican jungle and flow into the Caribbean Sea at this point. The jungle vegetation spills down to the water’s edge and is home to a myriad of plants and animals including sloths, iguanas and crocodiles. The locals call this place “Costa Rica’s Amazon”. Next stop was a large-scale banana plantation and packing plant. Then we spent a couple of hours strolling around the town of Limon and looking through the local markets before returning mid-afternoon to Miracle that was due to sail out at 4pm.
Panama Canal, Panama, Central America
At 7am on Tuesday, after two days at sea, Miracle docked in the port of Colon near the Atlantic-side entrance to the Panama Canal. Shortly after 8 we were outside the terminal negotiating with a local driver to take us on a day tour to see the Canal and surrounding countryside.
First stop was the Gatun Lock, one of the three sets of locks on the Panama Canal. Ship traffic is heavy, with 30 to 40 vessels passing through every day. We were lucky that our visit coincided with a “Panamax” rated freight ship entering the lock. The guide explained that this rating meant that this was the largest category of vessel permitted to use the Canal. This particular ship had a massive load of freight containers, and there appeared to be only a few centimetres of clearance on either side as the lock was flooded to raise the vessel the required 85 feet, and the vessel was then towed through the lock. The full transit time through the 80km-long canal from the Pacific to Atlantic, or vice versa, is about nine hours. The toll for a large freighter is about $200,000 per transit, but this is apparently good value as it cuts about 15,000 km off a journey from the west to east coasts of the USA. Nearly 1 million vessels have traversed the Canal since it opened for business on 15 August 1914. Planning is underway to cut a new channel to significantly expand the capacity of this route.
First stop was the Gatun Lock, one of the three sets of locks on the Panama Canal. Ship traffic is heavy, with 30 to 40 vessels passing through every day. We were lucky that our visit coincided with a “Panamax” rated freight ship entering the lock. The guide explained that this rating meant that this was the largest category of vessel permitted to use the Canal. This particular ship had a massive load of freight containers, and there appeared to be only a few centimetres of clearance on either side as the lock was flooded to raise the vessel the required 85 feet, and the vessel was then towed through the lock. The full transit time through the 80km-long canal from the Pacific to Atlantic, or vice versa, is about nine hours. The toll for a large freighter is about $200,000 per transit, but this is apparently good value as it cuts about 15,000 km off a journey from the west to east coasts of the USA. Nearly 1 million vessels have traversed the Canal since it opened for business on 15 August 1914. Planning is underway to cut a new channel to significantly expand the capacity of this route.
We then visited the historical and picturesque port town of Portobello, about a 45 minute drive from the Gatun Lock. This town was strategically located on the busy trade routes of the time, but sadly fell victim over decades to repeated sackings by pirates and foreign marauders including the Englishman Sir Francis Drake. Drake actually met his death here, and is buried on a nearby island.
Our tour ended with a drive around the streets of Colon and a walk through the colourful local markets.
We then re-boarded Miracle to the sounds of a salsa band playing on the walkway to the ship. At 5pm Miracle set sail from Colon, passing by a long line of vessels anchored in the harbour as we headed towards the breakwater and back out to sea.
Tuesday, 4 December 2007
Caribbean Sea
The cruise ship Carnival Miracle steamed out of Fort Lauderdale at 4pm on Saturday 1 December, bound for the Caribbean. We were on it, along with 2,700 other passengers and 930 crew. We passed several other cruise ships at dock as we headed out of the harbour.
Considering its monster size, Miracle glided along at a very snappy 37 km/hour under the command of Captain Alessandro Galotto of Italy. Most of the other senior officers are Italian too, with the remainder of the crew from all corners of the planet, particularly Eastern Europe and Asia. By sunset Miracle was steaming past the brooding skyline of Miami. No more land was to be seen for the next two days as Miracle headed east off the north coast of Cuba and then south into the Caribbean Sea.
Meanwhile, on board the passengers were busy familiarizing themselves with all of the ship’s magnificent facilities, meeting other passengers, and wasting no time sowing the seeds of destruction of any diets they might have been on. Some people appeared to have made a head start at home.
On Saturday night we all received the first of the daily newsletters that set out the following day’s activity, concert and culinary options. With cafes, bistros and restaurants all over the ship, and free 24 hour room service, even the most strong-willed passengers soon cracked. Included in the ship’s activity offerings is a range of health-related seminars. We could have gone to Secrets to a Flatter Stomach. Or Detox for Health & Weight Loss. Or Burn Fat Faster. But we didn’t. We went to Food and Wine Pairing at Nick and Nora’s, then on to Bacchus for lunch, followed by a cursory circuit around the top deck, before returning to our cabin stopping at Horatio’s Bistro on the way for a chunk of Linzer torte.
The following morning I was up at the crack of 10.30am. I can’t remember what I did for the rest of the day, but that evening was the Captain’s Cocktail Party followed by a formal dinner. We arrived at the cocktail party at the advised time to find an enormous crowd in front of us. A crew member appeared and announced that if any passengers wished to have their cocktails right away and to forego personally meeting the captain, to come this way. There was such a sudden surge of humanity in that direction that I thought it wise to mentally rehearse on the spot the “abandon ship” drill we all had to attend at embarkation, in case the Miracle went down right there and then. But she managed to stay afloat, and we found the way ahead had suddenly become clear and within a minute or two we were chatting with Captain Alessandro and his officers. Then it was time for a cocktail or two, or three, before dinner.
Each passenger had been assigned to the same table each night, and so we quickly became well acquainted with the other three couples at our table. There was one couple from Canada, one from Bermuda, and one from the USA. We all got along very well, so we decided to travel as a group on shore excursion days.
After dinner it was time to attend the nightly concert in the plush 2,200-person capacity Phantom Lounge. Later we sat in on the performance of the R-rated midnight comedian who was surprisingly funny. For some comedians, smut is a substitute for talent, but this guy was clever and witty. By now it was 1am, past our usual bedtime, but we decided before turning in to tour the Miracle to see what goes on at this hour. The jazz bar and casino were still humming, as were a few other bars. We went down to the bottom of the ship to check out Dr Frankenstein’s (the disco). There was no-one there, not even Dr Frankenstein. One possibility was that the doctor instantly transmogrified anyone turning up into a sperm whale and pitched them into the Caribbean. A more likely explanation was that given the age profile of the passengers, Dr Frankenstein wasn’t going to be getting many visitors this week.
All the while, powered by its 55,000 horse power propulsion system and on-board 60 megawatt electric power station, Miracle glided along relentlessly through the balmy Caribbean air and the watery blackness that swirled around the ship far below.
Considering its monster size, Miracle glided along at a very snappy 37 km/hour under the command of Captain Alessandro Galotto of Italy. Most of the other senior officers are Italian too, with the remainder of the crew from all corners of the planet, particularly Eastern Europe and Asia. By sunset Miracle was steaming past the brooding skyline of Miami. No more land was to be seen for the next two days as Miracle headed east off the north coast of Cuba and then south into the Caribbean Sea.
Meanwhile, on board the passengers were busy familiarizing themselves with all of the ship’s magnificent facilities, meeting other passengers, and wasting no time sowing the seeds of destruction of any diets they might have been on. Some people appeared to have made a head start at home.
On Saturday night we all received the first of the daily newsletters that set out the following day’s activity, concert and culinary options. With cafes, bistros and restaurants all over the ship, and free 24 hour room service, even the most strong-willed passengers soon cracked. Included in the ship’s activity offerings is a range of health-related seminars. We could have gone to Secrets to a Flatter Stomach. Or Detox for Health & Weight Loss. Or Burn Fat Faster. But we didn’t. We went to Food and Wine Pairing at Nick and Nora’s, then on to Bacchus for lunch, followed by a cursory circuit around the top deck, before returning to our cabin stopping at Horatio’s Bistro on the way for a chunk of Linzer torte.
The following morning I was up at the crack of 10.30am. I can’t remember what I did for the rest of the day, but that evening was the Captain’s Cocktail Party followed by a formal dinner. We arrived at the cocktail party at the advised time to find an enormous crowd in front of us. A crew member appeared and announced that if any passengers wished to have their cocktails right away and to forego personally meeting the captain, to come this way. There was such a sudden surge of humanity in that direction that I thought it wise to mentally rehearse on the spot the “abandon ship” drill we all had to attend at embarkation, in case the Miracle went down right there and then. But she managed to stay afloat, and we found the way ahead had suddenly become clear and within a minute or two we were chatting with Captain Alessandro and his officers. Then it was time for a cocktail or two, or three, before dinner.
Each passenger had been assigned to the same table each night, and so we quickly became well acquainted with the other three couples at our table. There was one couple from Canada, one from Bermuda, and one from the USA. We all got along very well, so we decided to travel as a group on shore excursion days.
After dinner it was time to attend the nightly concert in the plush 2,200-person capacity Phantom Lounge. Later we sat in on the performance of the R-rated midnight comedian who was surprisingly funny. For some comedians, smut is a substitute for talent, but this guy was clever and witty. By now it was 1am, past our usual bedtime, but we decided before turning in to tour the Miracle to see what goes on at this hour. The jazz bar and casino were still humming, as were a few other bars. We went down to the bottom of the ship to check out Dr Frankenstein’s (the disco). There was no-one there, not even Dr Frankenstein. One possibility was that the doctor instantly transmogrified anyone turning up into a sperm whale and pitched them into the Caribbean. A more likely explanation was that given the age profile of the passengers, Dr Frankenstein wasn’t going to be getting many visitors this week.
All the while, powered by its 55,000 horse power propulsion system and on-board 60 megawatt electric power station, Miracle glided along relentlessly through the balmy Caribbean air and the watery blackness that swirled around the ship far below.
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