Dubai, United Arab Emirates

My Middle East / Mediterranean sojourn ended where it began; in Dubai in the United Arab Emirates.  Dubai is an international city; it would be difficult to tell from the crowds in the shopping malls just what country you’re in.  But one thing seems clear; while Oman promotes the traditional, Dubai has energetically thrown its lot in with the future. 

‘Singapore meets Las Vegas’ is how Dubai felt to me.  There’s no shortage of cranes on the horizon presiding over huge construction projects intended to surpass the ego maniacal developments already here, like the world’s tallest building ‘Burj Khalifa’ and ‘Palm Jumeirah’, a massive palm-shaped residential/resort development built on the sea, at the end of which the Atlantis Hotel rises mirage-like on the horizon.    

My daughter Jane works as a flight attendant with Emirates Airlines and the trip was an opportunity to catch up with her for a bit when she had a few days off.  Her local knowledge was invaluable; Dubai is full of interesting, self-contained worlds off the main highway that runs the length of the city.

I stocked up on spices at the spice souq near Dubai Creek and found a tagine (Moroccan clay cooking pot) that Lee Tuan has been wanting.  But mainly our time was spent in the modern parts of the city, along the beach, people watching and window shopping in the glitzy labyrinthine malls, and eating at some very good restaurants where Jane’s staff discount card was a saviour.       

Valletta & Mdina, Malta

 

Malta was a real surprise.  Its strategic fortress-like location in the central Mediterranean has ensured a turbulent history over the millenia, during which it was ruled in turn by disparate civilizations.  The result today is a rich culture with magnificent historical architecture, and lots to see and do.  Why isn’t it better known on the tourist scene, we were left thinking.

My daughter Jane and I spent a few days exploring the undulating streets of the capital Valletta, and nearby Sliema where we were staying.  The view from our hotel across the water to the Valletta skyline was a knockout.  After viewing the informative Malta Experience at Fort St Elmo, we took a boat trip around the various harbours before inspecting the astonishing interior of St John’s Cathedral in central Valletta, commissioned in 1572 for the Knights of the Order of St John.  Back on the street we chanced upon a Christmas parade, and later a free Christmas concert by a great band with a very talented violinist as its front man.  The crowd of several hundred braved the cold air and sang and clapped along with the performers. 

On Saturday I took a bus to the ancient small city of Mdina, one-time capital of Malta.  The carved stone buildings were beautiful, as were the pieces for sale in the local Phoenician and Malta glass works.           

Kyrenia (Girne), Cyprus

Kyrenia on the north coast of Cyprus is a pleasant day trip from the capital Nicosia.  Its tiny harbour packed with boats and lined with characterful apartments and cafes presents one of the most picturesque sights on the island.  Towering overhead is ancient Kyrenia Castle, with so much to tell if only those thick walls could speak.  In one of the chambers lies the remains of the oldest shipwreck in the world; a coastal freighter from around 400 BC raised from the ocean floor a few decades ago.  The wreck was dated from analysis of the hull timbers and sacks of almonds on board when the ship went down.  After exploring the castle and strolling around the marina and waterfront, it was time for fish and chips on the terrace overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.

Nicosia, Cyprus

Cyprus’ capital Nicosia is a divided city.  Ever since the inter-communal violence of the early 70s and the Turkish invasion of 1974, Cyprus has been a divided nation with a Greek south and Turkish north, with a UN buffer zone between the two to keep the peace.  But in recent years tensions have eased somewhat, and it’s now possible to pass between the two sectors, as I did several times in Nicosia over the past few days.  But ‘no man’s land’ between the checkpoints of the two sectors remains an eerie, edgy place with boarded up decaying buildings and signs warning against entry or photography.      

The old town centre is compact with a few interesting sights on each side of the border.  I spent a day wandering around the winding streets and alleys on both sides.  The highlights were the Cyprus Museum displaying relics from Cyprus’ millennia of recorded history during which it has been ruled over by various civilisations, and north of the line, a dance performance by Sufi Muslims of the Mevlevi Order better known in the west as the “whirling dervishes”.  The short video below will explain the name.  The performance was beautiful and slightly hypnotic.

Larnaca, Cyprus

Larnaca on the south coast of the island nation of Cyprus is the main entry point for international air flights and this is perhaps the main reason why many travellers find themselves here.   But it’s a pleasant enough place with a few interesting things to see, before moving on.   I spent a day walking many kilometres around and out of the town.  I stumbled across Agios Lazaros, a ninth century Byzantine church dedicated to Lazarus of Bethany.  The story goes that shortly after his death and then being resurrected by Jesus, Lazarus was forced to flee Bethany.  His boat landed in Kition in present-day Cyprus, and he was later ordained a bishop, a position he held for thirty years.  In 890 AD his tomb, bearing the inscription “Lazarus friend of Christ” was found.  Byzantine Emperor Leo the Sixth had Lazarus’ remains exhumed and removed to Constantinople (but this time only his bodily remains).  I’m reminded here of Paul Keating’s famous put-down of political rival Andrew Peacock – “a soufflé never rises twice”.  And neither it seems, did Lazarus.  I looked around the interior of the church before descending into the catacomb to inspect Lazarus’ tomb. Then for something completely different I hiked out of the town to the large salt lake near the airport.  This otherwise unremarkable body of water becomes a temporary home each year to thousands of pink flamingos who fly in from Africa to winter in Cyprus and feed on the brine shrimp that thrive in the lake.  The flamingos were already here, and I watched them feed and jockey with each other as the sun set.          It was a long walk back to my hotel and the Christmas lights were twinkling across town as I made my way along “Finikoudes”, the promenade looking out over the still waters of the Mediterranean Sea.

Thoughts turned to dinner, which I had at Zephyros on the seafront. I had the seafood meze, a mixed platter of sardines, larger fish, calamari, shrimps and octopus, served with pitta bread, salad and olives. And a small bottle of Cyprus wine. It was all excellent, and when I eventually ventured outside again, the air had become decidedly chilly.

Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates

We took a day drive from Dubai to Abu Dhabi in the United Arab Emirates.  First stop was for a peek at the opulent Emirates Palace Hotel, smothered in marble, gold and crystal.   1,002 Swarovski chandeliers light the interior.  And I saw something here I’d never seen before – a gold vending machine!  Yes that’s right – gold.  If you’re on the run and suddenly have the need for some gold, as you might from time to time (although I never have), you can simply stuff a lot of cash or your credit card into the Gold to Go vending machine, and out will come an ingot of your choosing.  The machine is networked to the world gold market and updates the price of the offerings every thirty seconds.

But the highlight of the day was certainly the Grand Mosque of Abu Dhabi.  We were lucky – we got there only a few minutes before closing time, and shortly before the sun set and the lights came on to illuminate the building.  40,000 Muslims can pack into the main hall for prayers.  Outside, 80 white marble domes grace the roof that is supported by over 1,00 pillars.  It’s a very beautiful place, with tasteful use of crystal, semi precious stones and ceramics.  And of course the floor is covered with a gargantuan Persian carpet. A photographer’s paradise.

Muscat, Sultanate of Oman

I began my second day in Muscat with a long dawn walk along the Mutrah waterfront, this time to the east in the direction of the Sultan’s palace.  Along the way I passed the remains of old 17th century Portuguese forts, imposingly perched on the cliff tops.  These have survived for much longer than the 140 years that the Portuguese themselves managed to hang on as rulers of Muscat before being driven out.  From the Sultan’s palace I took a taxi to the incredible Grand Mosque, a gift to the nation from Sultan Qaboos to mark the 30th year of his reign.  It’s impressive enough from the outside with its pleasing geometry, intricate wall mosaics, and gleaming white marble, but wait until you go inside; ‘exquisite’ doesn’t begin to describe it.  For tourist visiting hours, a temporary blue carpet is laid out on the floor; this, and the instruction not to touch anything, protects the place from being sullied by the unfaithful.  The actual mosque floor carpet is enormous, the largest Persian carpet in the world.  70 metres long by 60 metres wide, it took 600 women four years to weave!     

Once back in Mutrah I ambled down to the waterfront fish market where there was still plenty of the day’s catch left to be admired and bought.  Lacking a stove, I merely looked, but nearby there was an Omani fish griller.  I chose a whole small snapper, and thirty minutes later I was presented with a delicious hot fish, caked in a mix of Arabian spices and chopped onion, served with fragrant rice and a side salad.  It was all excellent.  Along with a packet of Omani dates from the adjacent fruiterer, I had the day’s food sorted.  Last stop before the 1 to 4 pm Omani siesta, that I wisely observed, was the worthwhile museum Bait Al-Baranda that describes the turbulent history of Oman and the port of Muscat.  Then it was time to hotfoot it back to my hotel before the sun, now high in the sky, really began to bite.