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Friday, 29 March 2013

Casablanca & Fez, Morocco

casa3Our bus from Marrakesh pulled into Casablanca city centre around noon on Monday. I kept an eye out for Humphrey and Ingrid, but it seems the days when Casablanca was an exotic destination and stuff of dreams have long gone.  Now it seems a relatively modern city you might see anywhere - international company and brand names top the buildings facing the thoroughfares lined with tall palm trees leading into the city.

We stopped only briefly to drop off a few passengers before inching our way through the traffic and back out onto the modern expressway, bound for Fez.

Like Marrakesh, 1,200 year old Fez, one time Moroccan capital, still has an ancient medina at its core, surrounded by a modern city (bonne nouvelle).  And as in Marrakesh, we based ourselves in the medina in a riad (traditional Moroccan guesthouse), within the warren of narrow winding alleyways crowded with people and laden donkeys passing up and down, maintaining the rhythm of life that has existed here for centuries.  Home to 150,000 people, this medina is the world’s most ancient and still has a decided medieval look and feel about it. 

A morning’s wander will take the shuffling goggle-eyed tourist upfront and personal with oncoming donkeys laden with produce and building materials, and past small shops of all description; butchers, fruits, vegetables, tinsmiths, stone engravers, leather shoemakers near the smelly tannery, food stalls, juice makers and traditional clothing, to name a few.

Within the medina walls there are several mosques and even a 700 year old Islamic theological college, Medersa Bou Inania, recently beautifully restored.  Further down past Place an-Nejjarine is Kairaouine Mosque & nearby centre of advanced learning, claimed to be the world’s oldest Islamic university.

Of course, these explorations required fuel and there was no shortage of places to sit down and enjoy a glass of freshly squeezed juice or mint tea or coffee, with something more substantial like a Tagine boeuf or chicken kebab with tomatoes, olives and bread. 

Monday, 25 March 2013

Marrakesh, Morocco, North Africa

Djemaa el-fna and maze-like medina in old Marrakesh is a full blown assault on the senses – a riot of sights, sounds, smells, shock, colour, motion. And taste – Tagine everything, freshly squeezed orange juice and macaroons on the go.  French seems to be the most widely spoken language, and wherever there is Francais, following not far behind will be Patisseries.  Par excellence.

We visited some Moroccan palaces featuring fine stone and plaster carving, then on Friday we celebrated our wedding anniversary with lunch at Yves Saint Laurent’s villa.  Yves unfortunately wasn’t able to join us, having died five years ago, but I’m sure he was there with us in spirit as we dined in style on Couscous aux poisson in the cafe under the trees in his beloved garden bequeathed to the Moroccan people on his death and now open to the public.

Thursday, 21 March 2013

In the footsteps of Thomas Gregory, Hampshire, England

For a few days we followed in the footsteps of the early life of Thomas Gregory (see my previous post) in county Hampshire. Our first stop was the small village of Hurstbourne Tarrant where Thomas was born on 16 July 1799, and baptised five days later in the ancient village church, St Peter’s, built in the 12th century and still containing centuries-old elements.  We inspected the church interior and rear graveyard, locating the 1830s section of the latter where Thomas’ parents would have been buried, both having died while Thomas was detained in Van Diemen’s Land.  In a shockingly cruel twist of fate, the day after Thomas was pardoned in Van Diemen’s Land, back in England his mother died.

Hurstbourne Tarrant still contains many old buildings, including some impossibly quaint cottages hatted out with cute carved straw roofs. We departed via Hurstbourne Hill that gives a fine panoramic view of the village and surrounding countryside. 

Next stop was the nearby village of Thruxton.  Following a picnic lunch on Thruxton Green we inspected the grounds of the adjacent Church of St Peter & St Paul.  It was here on 18 November 1826 that Thomas married Maria Cooper and where their sons were baptized in the following years.  The family lived in Thruxton where Thomas was a skilled tradesman and had obtained a position as carpenter to village and county bigwig Lord Winchester. 

The tiny village of Quarley little more than a kilometre to the south-west was our next destination.  It was here on 22 & 23 November 1830 that Thomas’ life became seriously unstuck.  Leading a mob of disaffected and desperate labourers, Thomas took part in the destruction of Mr William Edward’s chaff cutting machine, and Mr Richard Cox’s threshing machine.  Even more seriously (as far as the Law was concerned), Thomas demanded a sovereign from Mr Joseph Lane, an act deemed to be robbery for which Thomas was later very nearly to be executed by hanging.

Thomas was arrested and taken south to the city of Winchester for trial and sentencing.  And so that had to be our next destination too.

Winchester.  Winchester is one of England’s most historically significant places.  For several centuries it was England’s capital city.  It was William the Conqueror who commenced the construction of Winchester Castle, used by various Royals until its destruction by Oliver Cromwell’s forces in 1645.  Only the Castle’s 12th century “Great Hall” survived.  And it was in this very Hall where the Hampshire agricultural rioters of 1830 were tried and sentenced.

And so it was that on Wednesday 22 December 1830, Thomas Gregory was taken from the nearby Winchester County Gaol in Jewry Street and led into the Great Hall of Winchester, for his own trial to begin before stern Judge Baron Vaughan.

We had much more salubrious digs in Winchester than Thomas did in 1830 – we stayed in a traditional English Hotel, the Winchester Royal, popular, as we discovered, with friendly older ladies touring groups. Just around the corner in Jewry Street still stands much of the former County Gaol, though these days put to a much happier use as the Old Gaolhouse Pub.  And we were also free to roam around inside the Great Hall, now a museum open to the public, and imagine the fear and trepidation Thomas must have felt as he passed through that imposing door and entered the cavernous space inside to account for his actions and to learn his fate.  

gaol 1839

Our final stop was on the coast, about an hour south of Winchester, at Gosport on Portsmouth Harbour.  These days the scene at Gosport is one of marinas and waterfront apartments, but in 1830 the waterside living was of an altogether different kind with convict ships moored along here.  It was in the prison hulk ‘York’ moored at Gosport that Thomas spent his final weeks in England before being loaded, in chains, onto the ship ‘Proteus’, sailing shortly afterwards through the narrow entrance of Portsmouth Harbour and out onto the ocean, to punishment and a new life on the other side of the world.

And fittingly it was at Gosport that we too bid Adieu to Thomas Gregory, to head off to prepare for our own departure from England.  

York hulk circa 1829

Tuesday, 19 March 2013

Thruxton, Hampshire, England

13th Marquis of Winchester - Lord Winchester gaol 1839 York hulk circa 1829

A dawn debacle this morning involving trains very nearly saw us miss our flight from Oslo back to England. We ran through the station and dashed through the airport, reaching check-in seconds before the gate would have closed in our faces. Three hours later we were cruising down the M3 motorway west of London headed for the tiny village of Thruxton in county Hampshire. It looks a prosperous enough place but it hasn’t always been like this.

In the late 1820s living conditions for many English agricultural workers and their families had become grim. There was a surfeit of labour, and the situation was exacerbated by the introduction of farm machinery and a succession of crop failures, both further reducing the need for men at harvest time. Deep discontent bubbled over into rioting in late 1830, the men taking out their frustration on the threshing machines now widely used on farms. Anonymous letters were sent to farmers, threatening that if they didn’t destroy their own machines, the men would come and do it for them. In many cases, this is exactly what happened. Often too, after converging on a farm and destroying the machines, the men would demand a sovereign from the farmer on the way out. The farmers often paid up in the hope of avoiding further trouble.

Penalties for misbehaviour at the time were very harsh and the Government resolved to crack down hard on the rioters to discourage others becoming involved. Several hundred men were rounded up and tried at a special court set up at Winchester. Heavy penalties were imposed, including transportation for many years, even for life, to the penal colonies in Australia. Even worse, many of those who had demanded money from the farmers were sentenced to death by hanging, their actions being deemed robbery which carried the death penalty at the time. One of these was Thomas Gregory, a skilled carpenter from the village of Thruxton. He was arrested, separated from his wife Maria and infant sons, taken in chains to Winchester, and incarcerated in the county gaol to await his fate. But the lives of most of those condemned, including Thomas Gregory, were spared following a groundswell of public opinion and agitation that recognized there were genuine grievances underlying the rioters’ actions.

On 22 December 1830 Thomas Gregory was tried for machine breaking and robbery, his trial reported in The Times of London. The Judged singled Thomas out, noting that “the prisoner Gregory, it appears, was in the service of Lord Winchester, and was earning 18 shillings a week as a carpenter. He, therefore, had not even the plea of distress to urge – if that could be urged in any case, as a palliation for his offence.” The Judge then sentenced Thomas to death, but this was later commuted to seven years transportation to the Australian penal colony of Van Diemen’s Land (now known as Tasmania). Thomas was transferred to the prison hulk York moored at Gosport in Portsmouth Harbour and a few weeks later, in chains, loaded onto the convict ship Proteus that set sail for Hobart on the other side of the world. In Van Diemen’s Land, Thomas was assigned to a government work gang where no doubt his carpentry skills were put to good use.

Back in England there was growing disquiet at the harsh penalties meted out, and six years later the men convicted of machine breaking and/or robbery in the riots of late 1830 were pardoned. But only a handful of them, perhaps fewer than 20, ever made it back to England to see their families again. One of these was Thomas Gregory.

But living conditions for working people in southern England were still grim, and Thomas, despite the rigours of convict life, had seen a new way of life and opportunity on the other side of the world. He’d obviously heard that a new colony was being established in South Australia, this one not a convict colony, and it needed skilled workers. And so it was that Thomas Gregory now a free man, wife Maria, and four young sons including six month old Alfred, set sail for South Australia in early 1839 on the ship Asia. But it was a voyage scarred with much tragedy. Infectious disease broke out killing many children, including Thomas and Maria’s baby Alfred who died of typhoid and was consigned overboard to the deep on 9 April 1839 after a short, grim, funeral service on the main deck.

Asia docked off Adelaide on 16 July 1839, barely two years after the new colony of South Australia had been proclaimed, and at a time when there was still not a single road in Adelaide. Even the main streets, Rundle and Hindley, were still just dirt tracks. Thomas and Maria worked hard and within a few years they had become land owners and achieved a standard of living they could never have dreamt of in England.

It would be nice to think that after all he had suffered, Thomas spent his older years sitting contentedly with Maria on the front veranda of his “Thruxton Cottage” that he had built himself on his farm, and named after his home village in England. But this wasn’t how his life ended. On 13 April 1860, Thomas returned home to his farm on horseback from Adelaide. He had stopped at an Inn on the way and had drunk too much. When the horse arrived home it leant down to drink from a pond, and Thomas toppled forward over its neck into the murky water below. He was found by his sons a couple of hours later, in the words of the Coroner’s Report, “quite dead and cold”. The Coroner concluded: “The deceased was accidentally drowned in a horse-pond while in a state of intoxication.” Thomas was only 62 years old.

Maria survived Thomas by 21 years; she died at the age of 84 on 22 September 1881. Both Thomas and Maria are buried in the Golden Grove cemetery in Adelaide, South Australia.

It is difficult to imagine the depths of despair Maria must have felt when Thomas was taken away in chains in late 1830. She was a young mother with three sons at the time, the youngest only a year old, and it was expected that Thomas would never be able to return to England and they would never see him again. But Thomas did come back – albeit six years later.

Other women had it even worse. In the words of one writer describing the human cost of the riots and their aftermath, “For 65 years, one woman, not far from my home, through her young womanhood and middle and old age, slept wakefully at nights and moved silently by day, listening always for footsteps. In 1831 her husband and brother had both been transported – one for 14 years, the other for 7 years – for their part in the riots. Till the 14 years had passed she would not let herself expect them. The one must wait for the other, she said. But at the end of that time for almost 50 years she hoped through each hour; and she died in her chair turned towards the East, because she had heard that it was out of the sunrise that travellers from Australia must come.”

That was exactly the direction from which we had come early this morning, on our way to Thruxton. But of course the Gregorys had long gone. Which was very fortunate for me, for had none of this astonishing tale happened, I would never have been born. Thomas Gregory is my great-great grandfather.

Saturday, 16 March 2013

Oslo, Norway

Viking ship Oslo

Oslo is pleasant enough but not in the same league as Copenhagen or Stockholm, fellow Scandinavian capitals. But we had a pleasant time walking around the city centre for a few days.  The highlight for us was the fabulous Viking Ship Museum displaying three 1,200 year old Viking ships discovered buried in mud not far from Oslo a hundred years ago, and now restored near to their former glory. Also impressive was Vigeland Sculpture Park containing hundreds of big sculptures of human forms, the life’s work of famous Norwegian artist Gustav Vigeland.

But why does Oslo allow itself to be sullied and parasitized by the obviously well-organized gypsy begging racket going on within its otherwise elegant city?  There seemed to be a gypsy or two on every street corner, and many of them around the train station, all asking passers-by for money.  It’s a pity the Vikings can’t return for a few days, or at least for the Norwegians to recapture a little of their Viking spirit, and drive this shameful blight off their streets.         

Viking ship Oslo Viking ship Oslo

Thursday, 14 March 2013

Lyngen Alps, near Tromso, Norway

DSC00970

Possibly the most scenic drive around Tromso is through the Lyngen Alps between the towns of Svensby and Lyngseidet, and from Seljelvnes to Laksvatn. It’s an icing sugar white landscape with impressive mountain backdrops all around. Very beautiful – a great day’s drive.

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