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Thursday, 11 June 2009

Venus Bay, Eyre Peninsula, South Australia


From Locks Well we moved further up the coast to Venus Bay, a 100 square kilometre expanse of sea water connected to the ocean only by a small narrow channel squeezed between two rocky headlands. We hiked the short South Head Walking Trail and saw pods of dolphins effortlessly surfing the large breaking waves speeding towards their demise on the cliff faces.

Back at our hired cottage in the tiny Venus Bay township, Geoff and I made up some more surf fishing rigs while Lee Tuan took a bag of flour and packet of yeast from the cupboard and conjured up some pizzas ready to be popped into the oven on our return from Mt Camel Beach, a nearby salmon fishing spot. We were last here about 15 years ago with three children in tow and all five of us were up before five and on the sand before the first light of day peeped over the dunes. We all have pleasant memories of the good fishing that morning and we hoped to repeat it now. But this time it was well into the sunny afternoon before we were standing on the water’s edge at Mt Camel casting the first pilchards into the surf. The fish here were fortunately smaller than those at Sheringa and Locks Well and just as plentiful and hungry, quickly seizing the baits and lures we threw. But as soon as our bag was full we were drawn like a salmon to a pilchard back to the cottage where the pizzas and red wine were waiting. But not before 32 freshly caught fish had to be scaled and gutted at the fish cleaning station down near the town’s jetty, overseen by a court of patient pelicans that looked on longingly. We didn't let them down. Over the following days we returned to Mt Camel Beach several times before dusk when the salmon came out to play and feed, and we left each time with a plump bag of assorted fish. A very welcome change from our usual piscatorial frustrations.

On Tuesday we hired a small boat and motored out on Venus Bay in search of King George Whiting, considered by many to be Australia’s finest table fish. Its flesh is white and fine and delicately flavoured. Heavy-handed culinary treatment is not the way to bring out the best in this fish. Lee Tuan has just the recipe:

Ginger Infused King George Whiting


In a cooking pot place four whole King George Whiting on a mesh or slotted plate above a small amount of water. Cut a clump of ginger into matchstick size pieces. Place most of the sticks on the fish and cover with tomato slices. Drop the remainder of the ginger sticks into the water. Cover the pot with a lid and steam the fish gently for 15 to 20 minutes until the eyes (the fishes', not yours) turn white and pop out. While the fish are steaming, finely chop some garlic and fry in a small amount of mild olive oil until golden. Drizzle the oil over the fish when it is finished steaming and serve the dish immediately with steamed Thai jasmine rice and steamed spinach, and a glass of cold Eden Valley Riesling. Heaven can wait.




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