From Trichy we took a bus north-east to Kumbakonam. The road was narrow, winding and crowded, making it impossible for the driver to achieve an average speed greater than about 30 km/hr. This was OK by us as it made the journey much safer and better for sightseeing. The driver gestured to us to put our backpacks at the front of the bus and we paid the extremely low fare and sat back to enjoy the trip. Although the bus was the most crowded conveyance we’ve ever been on, the air inside was remarkably pleasant despite the human crush. The bus’ open sides let in pleasantly warm air and the jasmine and citrus perfumes inside hung on the breeze and wafted across our visages to the delight of our olfactories.The only downer was the conductor who began badgering us about a “luggage fee” that was way out of proportion to the passenger fare we had already paid, and that were we to pay it, would clearly be going straight into his own pocket. But we were in no mood for an argument and we settled with him for 30% of his demanded fee. This quickly put the luggage fee matter behind us. Or so we thought. Further along the way the driver himself took up the issue of luggage fee and appeared taken aback to discover that we had already made such a payment to the conductor.
Some terse words exchanged between the two of them, taking the heat off us for awhile. But the driver soon returned his attention to us, seemingly more intent on getting a few extra rupees for his own pocket from a couple of foreigners than maximizing the fare collection for the Indian bus system. In his fixation on luggage fee, he drove past several people hailing the bus from the roadside. By now we’d had enough of “luggage fee” talk and refused to discuss the matter further, simply pointing accusingly at the conductor whenever the issue was raised. The passenger crush made it impossible to move to another position on the bus, and apparently it is quite the done thing for standing passengers to put their things on the lap of those lucky enough to have a seat. In this way Lee Tuan found herself with a bag of warm food on her lap for much of the journey.
In Kumbakonam we checked into the Rayas Hotel and struck out to see what brings many visitors to this otherwise non-descript Indian town – more fantastic Hindu temples! They’re here because centuries ago Kumbakonam was a seat of medieval South Indian power. There are 18 in all but we only had the time and inclination to look around three of them. But even through the eyes of someone with no religious convictions, they are staggering structures in their size and detail and beauty.
The following morning we took a cycle rickshaw to the nearby village of Dharasuram to see the even more impressive, world heritage listed Airatesvara Temple, a superb example of 12th century Chola architecture built by Rajaraja II. This solid complex surrounded by green lawns is constructed of sculptured granite featuring beautiful colouration of browns, greys and pinks. In its heyday the influence of the Chola Empire spread throughout South-east Asia and was responsible for much of the temple sculpture imagery there, such as at Angkor Wat in Cambodia.
Back in town the noise and teeming life surged non-stop around the streets. Animals are welcome to wander as they please and a couple of times a family of goats walked along with us until they tired of our company. One of their number munched on a large poster it was stripping from a roadside wall. Not having had rabies shots, we gave the many wandering dogs a wide berth. And as for the revered cows, well they have the keys to the city.
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