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Punjab in India’s north-west is home to the Sikhs who comprise a surprisingly low 2% of the Indian population. The city of Amritsar just short of the border with Pakistan is a major pilgrimage centre for Sikhs, containing the fabulous Sikh Golden Temple of Amritsar, one of the greatest sights in India. We strolled around the perimeter of the lake containing the Temple in the evening when it shimmered watery golden, and again in the morning. Relaxing Sikh religious music reverberated non-stop around the perimeter walls while thousands of pilgrims kneeled towards the temple and bathed in the cool surrounding waters.
Adjacent to the huge temple complex is Jallianwala Bagh, site of an infamous massacre by British troops in 1919. In response to recently-proclaimed repressive legislation, Indians staged public protests all over the country, including here at Jallianwala Bagh. In a moment of madness, exasperated British General Dyer ordered his troops to open fire on unarmed protesters, several hundred of whom were murdered on the spot. Bullet marks are still visible in the surrounding walls, as is the deep well into which many people jumped in a futile attempt to save their own lives.
On Wednesday night we took a taxi to the nearby Attari-Wagah border crossing with Pakistan to see the nightly border closing ceremony that takes place under the watchful gaze of heavily armed soldiers on both sides. Lahore in Pakistan is just 30 km from this crossing, closer than our return journey to Amritsar. There were many thousands of exuberant, dancing Indians on the Indian side, and a lesser number of much more restrained Pakistanis on the Pakistani side. The ceremony itself was very theatrical with over-the-top marching, shouting and singing, but the crowd on both sides loved it. Then the border gates slammed shut for the night.
Amritsar itself is a pleasant city – it seems more affluent, cleaner and better developed than other parts of India and the food is excellent, particularly fish, surprisingly. Punjab has five large rivers that water the fertile countryside, making this region one of India’s principal breadbaskets.
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