Like Krakow, Wroclaw boasts a beautiful town square that packs in the tourists, but unlike Krakow’s, it’s a re-creation after the near-total destruction of World War 2. Before 1945 this was the German town of Breslau, but post-war border realignment resulted in the city becoming Polish territory. The German residents were expelled and the city renamed Wroclaw; it was then re-populated with Polish people dispossessed by the Russians who had taken Polish territory in the East.
The town centre itself is reason enough to visit Wroclaw but we saw another sight which definitely makes the city a must-see destination if you’re in this part of the country. When the dispossessed Polish people came from the East after the War, they brought with them a massive painting, the Panorama of Raclawicka, depicting the 1794 defeat of Russian forces by the Polish peasant army. Measuring 114 metres long and 15 metres high, the 360 degree painting was finally displayed in 1985, following decades of refusal by the communist authorities for it to be seen by the public (given that it involved a Russian defeat at the hands of the Poles). It’s now beautifully installed in a purpose-built circular hall in Wroclaw and to say that it’s stunning is perhaps an understatement. Photographs don’t do it justice – you need to be there to appreciate the feeling of immersion in the countryside surrounded by the battle. We’ve seen nothing more impactful on our trip. Definitely don’t miss this if you visit Wroclaw.
One of the striking images travelling through Poland is the sight of the cemeteries. Everywhere they’re covered with fresh, bright flowers – hence a profusion of flower markets as well.
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